The Musée Picasso Paris (as it is officially called) first opened in 1985 to great excitement. The elegant seventeenth-century Hôtel Salé had been transformed into a series of pristine, if somewhat awkwardly laid out, exhibition spaces. Hand-wrought metal furniture by Diego Giacometti, Alberto’s brother, provided a sympathetic counterpoint to the exhibited works. The neighborhood of the Marais, once the home of the aristocracy of the ancien régime, was still a little exotic, not yet fully transformed into today’s bastion of chic shops, prestigious galleries, and expensive apartments. There was a sense of discovery and adventure in the quartier, even though many of the once neglected buildings of the Marais, like the Picasso Museum, had already been beautifully restored, and even if the courtyards of those awaiting attention were...

 
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